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On the heights of Ayudag are the remains of an ancient fortification with thick walls of "wild stone" but little else. "And is it surprising?" Keppen asks. "One must remember that this place has not been inhabited since 1475. And from that time no…

Keppen found no antiquities at Kaskule or Kalepartash despite the promise of their names ("kule" means tower and "kale" means fortification). He also notes that on November 25, 1834, he spent half a day slogging through miserable weather from Kutly…